NW EXPLORATIONS - part 2

The morning of Monday, May 13^th, Bill, Frank and Bob from Patos were busy plotting and planning a course across the Strait of Georgia to Pender Harbour.  Jordan gave advice on where to anchor.  Bonum Vitae took the lead and we cast off the docks in Nanaimo before 10AM.  Captain Frank was happy!

 The crossing seemed to be devoid of wildlife – where was Hannah when we needed her?  By 2PM we had dropped anchor twice before setting the hook.  This first anchorage of the trip was rather disappointing.  We were hoping to be anchored in a more scenic, secluded cove but instead were surrounded by vacation homes and a small marina.  The anchorage was redeemed by the sighting of two bald eagles high up in the trees.

 

Before leaving Nanaimo, we had commandeered two kayaks from Deception and Madeline and Bob from Patos came to retrieve them shortly after dropping anchor.  We decided to try our hand at launching our dinghy.  Between the four of us we managed to remember all the key steps involved with launching and were able to take a short cruise around the harbor. 

 

Vivian prepared a delicious pork entrée complete with asparagus, bread sticks and wine, of course!

 

On Tuesday, May 14^th, Frank and I donned our rain gear and pulled up anchor. Bonum Vitae was on its way with Patos by 9AM bound for Grace Harbour. While the forecast predicted only a 40% chance of showers, it rained/sprinkled on us most of the five hour, 48-mile cruise.  Quite honestly, this was the type of weather we associated with cruising in the northwest.  The bimini covering the upper helm could have undergone a better weatherproofing during the off season, but all in all we managed to stay pretty dry.

 

 

Despite the dreary weather we still enjoyed the beautiful scenery along the narrow Thulin Passage between the Copeland Islands and the Malaspina Peninsula.  If only Hannah had been cruising with us we might have known what trees and rock formations we were looking at! 

 

As we rounded Sarah Point we officially entered Desolation Sound, the glacier-cut waterway renowned as one of the Northwest’s most sought-after cruising destinations. In 1792 George Vancouver explored this area and dubbed it Desolation Sound noting that “there was not a single prospect that was pleasing to the eye.”  He and his crew were obviously in foul moods having dealt with inclement weather, flea infestations, and shellfish poisoning!

 

 

Grace Harbour was just the kind of secluded anchorage we had expected to find along the Inside Passage.  As we celebrated another successful setting of the anchor, Bill and Vivian espied a pair of Common Mergansers – a male and a female – gracefully paddling around the cove.  And either a porpoise or a seal would occasionally pop its head out of the water.  No one was willing to head out exploring in the dinghy – we had enough wet cruising for one day.  We stayed onboard and enjoyed another great meal and good conversation. 

 

An afternoon phone call from Jordan had informed us that the rest of the flotilla was still in Nanaimo preparing for an afternoon departure for Pender Harbour.  Plans were made to rendezvous with them near Hernando Island Wednesday around noon.  A little sunshine tomorrow would be much appreciated.

 

The sun was shining when we awoke on Wednesday, May 15^th.  We had several hours to while away before meeting the Nanaimo flotilla so Patos and Bonum Vitae decided to explore the Desolation Sound Marina Park.  The crew of Patos had previously been to this area so as we rounded Mink Island they took the lead through Prideaux Haven where each stunning vista proved to be more beautiful than the last stunning vista. 

 

Cruising to Desolation Sound

 

 Scenes from Desolation Sound Marine Park

 

 

  

Patos leads the way to Prideaux Haven

 

Bonum Vitae in Desolation Sound

 

 

Patos in Desolation Sound

 

Scenes from Desolation Sound Marine Park

 

We had barely scratched the surface of exploration of Desolation Sound Marine Park but it was time to think about reaching our rendezvous with the rest of the flotilla.  Leaving Prideaux Haven behind, we turned north up Lewis Channel around Cortes Island then south on Sutil Channel between Cortes Island and Read Island to meet Deception, Discovery and Thea (Arctic Star’s replacement).  Patos, being a slower boat, took a shorter route back to the rendezvous point.  Along our route, we encountered nesting eagles and several seals sunning on a rocky outcrop with others frolicking in the nearby water.  The sunshine made for a picture perfect day.

 

 

Seals along Sutil Channel

 

Jordan had warned that timing our arrival at Beasley Passage was critical in order for the flotilla to have an easy cruise through the rapids there.  With Bill at the helm, we carefully observed the boats ahead of us get pushed and rocked every which way through the swirling water.  He had at least one white-knuckle moment when he realized that he would have to give Bonum Vitae a power boost to get her to respond to his wheel. 

 

Rapids along Beasley Passage

 

Octopus Islands Marine Park, our destination for the evening, was less than an hour past Beasley Passage and the remainder of the day’s cruise was in much calmer water.

 

Flotilla at anchor in Octopus Islands Marine Park

 

 

By 4PM we had set the hook and launched the dinghy.  While Bill and Vivian took the dinghy for a bird-watching cruise around Waiatt Bay, Frank and I joined Hannah and others for a long nature hike on Quadra Island. 

 

Hiking through towering hemlocks and Douglas fir, we marveled at the bushy skunk cabbage and massive ferns with curling fiddleheads. The densely moss-carpeted forest floor was littered with fallen tree trunks serving as breeding grounds for all kinds of mushrooms, moss and young saplings – ‘nursery logs’.

 

 

     

By the time we returned to Bonum Vitae it was way past our normal happy hour!  As we sipped our libations, we were entertained by the shrieks of several members of the crew of Patos leaping from their swim platform into the chilly water of Waiatt Bay.  Brodie and Jordan came aboard to troubleshoot the water maker.