Lake Huron

We left Beaver Island under sunny skies and the beautiful weather seemed to bring out plenty of pleasure boaters - there were more boats on the water today than any other day we have cruised.  In fact, we even shared passage through Grays Reef Passage just west of the Straits of Mackinac with not one but two commercial vessels – the first we have encountered on this trip.  Before long we were passing under the Mighty Mac, the Mackinac Bridge, and entering Lake Huron. 

The five-mile-long Mackinac Bridge linking Michigan’s lower and upper peninsulas was completed in 1957.  While we had passed under this bridge several times in our previous travels, this was the first time heading eastbound.  It looks the same either way!  J This time we decided to stay in St. Ignace on the Upper Peninsula rather than in Mackinaw City on the Lower Peninsula.

The town of St. Ignace is directly across the Straits of Mackinac, at the other end of the Mighty Mac, from Mackinaw City.  Jesuit missionaries, including Father Jacques Marquette, arrived in 1671 and christened their mission here in honor of their founder, St. Ignatius Loyola.  St. Ignace is one of the oldest continuous settlements in the United States.  Since its beginning, St. Ignace has been a commercial hub in the northern Great Lakes – seventeenth century fur trading and commercial fishing, nineteenth century lumber mills and iron production, and now tourism.

High Speed ferry with its distinctive rooster tail approaches St. Ignace

We dodged several high speed Star Line ferries whisking tourists to nearby Mackinac Island and gingerly made our way to our slip at St. Ignace City Marina just as the winds stirred things up.  Despite those ill-timed winds, Captain Frank expertly docked Lazy W and two young dock hands helped secure us in the slip.  Of course, this tie-up was not quite to the captain’s satisfaction and so we began the process of re-tying.  All was going well until the wind pushed Lazy W’s stern away from the dock, taking out the piling which was still securely fastened to our stern line (the captain can tie a hitch!) but uselessly bobbing in the water!  OOPS!!! Frank and another helpful boater wrestled the heavy piling onto the dock and secured the stern line to what we hope is a sturdy cleat.  We noticed later that some other docks were also missing a piling or two and that made me feel better.

OOPS!!

St. Ignace is a long way from the maddening crowds of Mackinac Island and Mackinaw City but we found plenty of entertainment during our short visit there.  Wednesday night brought a local folk duo to the marina gazebo.  Thursday afternoon a farmer’s market set up on State Street and a wine tasting featuring Michigan wines was hosted by The Pavilion Marketplace.  After a dinner of whitefish fingers at a local restaurant, we listened to Rum Boogie, a three-piece band playing an eclectic mix of Motown, Johnny Cash, Jimmy Buffett and Willie Nelson.

Rum Boogie

As we listened, I noticed Ross and Charlotte walking the dock to their sailboat – we met them last season on the docks of Killarney – and we stopped by for a nice chat.  We hope to meet up with them again when we stop at their hometown of Munising on Lake Superior.

Sunset at St. Ignace Municipal Marina

From St. Ignace we scooted around the back of Mackinac Island thus avoiding the high-speed ferries and made our way to the sheltered water of Les Cheneaux, “The Channels.”  What was once the travel route of explorers and fur traders is now a vacation wonderland of the Upper Peninsula.  The thirty-six islands here are heavily wooded with cedars and studded with vacation homes.  Many of their fixed docks are underwater – a visible reminder that the water levels in the Great Lakes are up this season.

This home on Dollar Island is now completely surrounded by water in Les Cheneaux

The waterway is narrow and marked by buoys that demanded our close attention. The small towns of Hessel and Cedarville have marinas catering to small boats and specializing in the care and maintenance of wooden boats.  We saw several of these beauties zipping along the many sheltered bays of Les Cheneaux.

Our first anchorage of the season was a success!  The anchor chain unrolled smoothly and the anchor caught on the very first drop in Government Bay.  The following morning the generator fired up giving me hot shower water and Frank his steaming coffee.  And the winch performed smoothly and the muddy anchor released easily.  The day was off to a good start!  We were on our way to Drummond Island.

De Tour Reef Light

Boat traffic along De Tour Passage

De Tour Passage is part of the shipping channel that leads to the St. Mary's River and Sault Ste. Marie.  There always seems to be a freighter in view and today did not disappoint.  By 1PM we were securely docked at Drummond Island Yacht Haven after a particularly ugly arrival that rattled the crew of Lazy W.  Why does the wind get gusty just as we arrive at a marina?!?!?!

  

After two days in Drummond Island where the Captain spent a full day shining up Lazy W, we cast off the lines on a dreary overcast morning and began our cruise up the St.  Marys River to Sault Ste. Marie.  Patti and Alan would be meeting us (by car) at the George Kemp Marina in a few days so it was time for us to get a move on.

The seventy-five-mile long St. Marys River connects Lake Huron and Lake Superior.  Our cruise today would cover the southernmost 40+ miles from Drummond Island to Sault Ste. Marie.  Near Lime Island we passed the southbound freighter Algoma Strongfield and shortly thereafter we spotted our first bald eagle of the trip.

 

Boat traffic along the St. Marys River

 

As we entered the upbound channel of the St. Marys River near Neebish Island we were stopped by a Michigan DNR officer inquiring about our lack of visible state registration numbers on Lazy W.  We knew as a Coast Guard registered vessel home-ported in Virginia that these registration numbers are not required – he didn’t!  After radioing his supervisor, he now knows that five states do not require state registration numbers – and Virginia is one of them.  He apologized for the inconvenience and sent us on our way.

By 1PM Lazy W was gulping down diesel at the fuel dock at George Kemp Marina in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan.

                   Said a youngster of Sault Sainte Marie

                     To spell I will never agree,

                     Till they learn to spell Sault

                     Without any U

                     Or an A or L or a T.

                                      ---Henry Rowe Schoolcraft

 

Sault Ste. Marie is Michigan’s oldest city. Aboriginal tribes from all over North America gathered here over 2,000 years ago drawn by the wealth of fish and fur along the rushing water of the St. Marys River. They called the area Bahweting, Gathering Place. The French and the British recognized the strategic importance of the river and often fought over the area in the 1700’s.  In 1820 the Treaty of the Sault was signed turning over control to the United States.

The twin cities of Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan and Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario sit on opposite sides of the St. Marys River.  (Sault is French for waterfall.) The two cities are joined by the International Bridge that has spanned the river for over 50 years.  The St. Marys Rapids form a 21-foot natural barrier along the only water connection between Lake Superior and the other Great Lakes. Along the American side of the river are the world-famous Soo Locks built over 150 years ago to allow large vessels to safely traverse this 21-foot drop in elevation leaving Lake Superior. On the Canadian side the smaller Sault Canal Lock serves the needs of smaller recreational boaters travelling to and from Lake Superior. 

The American Soo Locks (MacArthur, Poe and Davis Locks) have been operated by the federal government since 1881 and are among the busiest locks in the world.  Dating back to 1855, iron ore started moving through the Soo Locks from Minnesota’s Mesabi Range eastward to the steel mills.  Today, more than 11,000 vessels carrying up to 90 million tons of cargo pass through the locks each year.  Most of this cargo is either iron ore, coal, grain or stone.  Visitors to the Soo Locks can get an up-close look at the lock operations from the observation platforms adjacent to the MacArthur Lock.

Freighter fills the Poe Lock

Tower of History in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan

 

George Kemp Marina and Museum Ship Valley Camp from the Tower of History

 

Adjacent to the George Kemp Marina is the Museum Ship Valley Camp.  (Frank enjoyed ogling her triple expansion steam engine and coal-fired Scotch boilers.)  Housed inside the massive cargo hold of this retired 550-foot long Great Lakes freighter are displays showcasing shipwrecks, lighthouses, local maritime history and the perils of life on these lakes.  While the Valley Camp is massive, she pales in comparison to the newer ‘footers’ plying the lakes today – they are 1,000+ feet long!

Triple expansion steam engine!

 

Looking out over the deck hatches from the wheel house of Valley Camp

 

 

Patti and Alan arrived on a rainy Wednesday afternoon.  We re-provisioned the boat at the Local Walmart and wandered thru downtown Sault Ste. Marie before enjoying dinner at Karl’s Cuisine.  From our dining table we watched a ‘footer’ approach the Poe Lock.

 The Pub Runners a trio of Irish lads from Gaylord Michigan were the featured musicians for Wednesday music in the Lock Park.  Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate but the Ramada Inn Ojibway agreed to host the musicians and listeners in their ball room.  The Pub Runners were great especially the electric fiddler.

Approaching MacArthur Lock

Happy 43^rd Anniversary to us!!!  Early Thursday morning, July 13^th, with some healthy trepidation, we approached the locks.  Soon we were cleared to enter the MacArthur Lock.  It was a dreary morning with no other boat traffic to contend with.  The lock line handler threw down two lines for us to wrap around Lazy W’s cleats and we were then given a gentle lift up to the level of Lake Superior.  The 21-foot upbound lock-through was uneventful and we continued on our way along the St. Marys River.

All alone in Mac Arthur Lock